Using Expired Skincare Products? Here’s What You Should Know

Viv
Aug 4
5 min read

When was the last time you checked the expiry date on your foundation? In the world of personal care, it’s tempting to believe our makeup and lotions last forever. But ignoring those tiny dates on the label could be a risky gamble with your health. From faded formulas to hidden bacteria, expired products can do more harm than good. In this article, we’ll uncover why those dates exist, how they’re set, and what’s at stake if they’re overlooked.

What Are Expiry Dates and How Are They Determined?

Expiry dates, often referred to as shelf life or use-by dates, provide crucial information about when a product should no longer be used. These dates are determined through extensive research, considering factors such as ingredient stability, packaging integrity, and the potential growth of harmful microorganisms. Cosmetic products typically feature two types of dates:

The Minimum Durability Date (MDD) or Best Before End Date (BBE): Products with a shelf life of less than 30 months require a “best-before” (BBE) date, indicated by an egg timer/sand timer icon or abbreviations like BBE or Exp. Since most products last over 30 months, BBE labels are uncommon (Cosmetic Info, n.d.).
The Period After Opening (PAO): Products lasting more than 30 months must indicate a “period-after-opening” (PAO) duration, specifying how long they remain safe after being opened. This is represented by an open cream jar symbol, containing a number and the letter M. For example, "6M" inside the jar means the product is usable for up to 6 months after opening (Typology, 2024).

Personal care items like lotions, shampoos, and makeup degrade over time. Manufacturers perform stability testing under various conditions before a product is released to the market to assess its sensitivity to bacterial contamination. This involves testing factors such as temperature, humidity, and light exposure to determine how long a product can retain its effectiveness and safety. It also considers the mode of use—whether the product is rinsed off the skin, if it will be applied with fingers, and more.

Product packaging also significantly influences expiry dates. Products in jars generally have shorter PAO durations due to increased air exposure and the likelihood of being used with fingers, introducing bacteria. Cosmetics stored in pump bottles or aerosols are typically more stable over time and have longer POA duration (Typology, 2024).

It's important to understand that, similar to food, cosmetics can expire before their expiration date if not stored correctly. For example, if bottles are not closed properly, exposed to high temperatures, or if harmful bacteria are introduced during use, the product may degrade before the expiration date.

Why Expiry Dates Are Important

Knowing why expiry dates are crucial can save you from using ineffective products or, worse, risking your health. Here are key reasons why paying attention to these dates is essential:

Hand applying yellow oil with a dropper onto skin in soft lighting, creating a relaxed and soothing mood.

Effectiveness: Over time, active ingredients can degrade. For example, sunscreens may lose UV protection, increasing sunburn risk.
Safety: Expired skincare and makeup products can harbor bacteria or mold, especially in creams and lotions that interact with skin and contain higher water dose than solid products. Using such products can lead to skin irritations or infections, which could affect up to 20% of users.
Stability: While some products may still show some usability just past their expiry date, they might not work as intended.

By adhering to expiry dates, you not only guarantee the effectiveness of your products but also protect your health.

How to Check Expiry Dates

Checking the expiry date should be easy, yet many consumers still overlook it. Here’s how to confirm if your products are still good to use:

Locate the Date: Some personal care products have an expiry date printed on the packaging. Look for phrases like "use by," "best before," or a specific date.
Look for Symbols: In certain areas, especially in Europe and the UK, products will display an icon that looks like an open jar (known as the Period After Opening, or PAO) to show how many months the product remains stable after being opened. You can keep track of when you open products by recording the dates in a spreadsheet or a note on your phone, or by using a sharpie to write the opening date on the product bottle.
Investigate the Packaging: If there’s no visible date, check for a lot number. Companies may provide a code you can look up on their website or clarify through customer service.
Check for Changes: Regardless of the expiry date, inspect your products for changes in scent, color, or texture. If anything seems unusual, it is better to discard the item.

Health Consequences of Using Expired Products

The risks of using expired personal care products can be significant. Here’s a closer look at potential health consequences:

Skin Reactions: Expired products might cause rashes, redness, or blemishes on skin. Degraded ingredients may turn into irritants.
Infections: Creams, lotions, or makeup can host bacteria or fungi when expired, posing infection risks.
Hormonal Disruption: Some personal care products contain chemicals that can interfere with hormone function. If these compounds break down or react with other ingredients, they could cause harmful effects.
Eye Damage: Outdated eye makeup can be particularly dangerous. These products generally have a shorter shelf life and can lead to serious infections or irritations if they become contaminated (FDA, 2022).

Myths About Expiry Dates

Though many remain convinced that expiry dates are infallible, several myths surround their meaning. Here are some common misconceptions:

Various makeup products are neatly arranged on a white tray, including foundation, lip gloss, and a candle labeled "BAIES".

"It’s Just a Suggestion": Some believe expiry dates aren't critical. In reality, risks come with using products that may be toxic or contaminated beyond the date.
"If It Looks Fine, It’s Okay": The visible condition of a product can be misleading. A product may look normal but still contain harmful bacteria.
"Natural Products Last Longer": While some prefer natural products, these can also spoil, especially those without preservatives.

Understanding these myths will help you make more informed decisions about your product usage and safety.

Best Practices:

Smart Habits for Safe, Clean Cosmetic Use

Keep it cool: Store products in cooler temperate, dry places—away from direct sunlight, radiators, or other heat sources.
Respect shelf life: Use items within their recommended period after opening (PAO), best-before date, or expiration label.
Seal with care: Tightly close lids after each use to preserve product integrity and prevent contamination.
Don’t dilute: Adding water (especially to mascara) disrupts the formula and encourages bacteria.
Stay sanitary: Apply cosmetics with clean hands or sanitized tools to keep germs out.
Clean tools regularly: Wash applicators thoroughly with soap or gentle shampoo and let them dry completely before reuse.
Use fresh testers: At stores, only apply products with new, single-use applicators—those counter testers are more likely to be contaminated than your own.
Don’t share makeup: You may also be sharing an infection—keep your personal care personal.
Shop smart: Be wary of resold cosmetics from flea markets or online vendors. These could be expired, used, diluted, tampered with, or even counterfeit. (CosmeticInfo, n.d.)
When in doubt, throw it out: Most cosmetics that aren't eligible for curbside recycling can be recycled through a cosmetics recycling program; check local stores such as Boots.

Final Thoughts

Using expired personal care products can pose health risks and reduce the effectiveness of your beauty routine. Regularly checking expiry dates and understanding their significance is crucial for staying both safe and effective.

Consider the expiry date a friendly reminder from the manufacturer rather than just a suggestion. By keeping your products updated, you not only maximize their benefits but also safeguard your health.

Next time you reach for that familiar lotion or favorite lipstick shade, take a moment to check the label—you could be doing your skin a great favor!